I am so freakin' happy and proud to vote today that I feel like I will burst. Let's hope that tomorrow I'll be even happier with the result. I had to document this historic moment---and have proof that I voted for change!!
Tuesday, November 4, 2008
Monday, October 27, 2008
Tbilisi, Georgia
I am in Tbilisis, where hospitality is paramount, and I think I've gained five pounds as a result! Arg. And that's with averaging only two meals a day and hitting the treadmill in the hotel exercise room. So you can imagine what it's been like....here is a photo of a "supra" we had Friday night. It literally translates to "tablecloth" but means huge feast with tons of courses, copious toasts led by a master of ceremonies, music, laughing, and gorging. I had the best roast suckling pig I had in my life! And plenty of Georgian wine. :) 
I was home for less than a month before I had to hit the road again. Fortunately, this was a short trip--only 12 days. You lose 2 days traveling this way, and one on the way back, so I'm really only here about 9 days.
This is a pic of their television tower, with a brand new church the light in between the city lights and the tower. I have forgotten how to rotate the photos on blogger. Sorry. Exercise your head!
The tower has lights shooting up and down it, and definitely looks like the Eiffel Tower. I loved it.
This is Freedom Square (where, it seems recently, people can't freely protest anymore). Everyone here wears black. A gazillion churches, very proud, culturally aware, and interesting people. The script that they use is like artwork. The civil war in the early 90s was really tough on them, and there are some seriously decrepit buildings. I'm seeing more poverty in the city than I expected.
The history and symbolism here are beautiful and all around you. The country's patron saint is St. George. There is a towering aluminum statue on a hill overlooking the city of Mother Georgia. She is holding a jug of wine in one hand, a sword in the other---welcoming her guests with her hospitality, and warning enemies that she will fight for her country. People say that this embodies the Georgian spirit: Fiercely proud, extremely hospitable and proud, but willing to fight for themselves. There are ballets and theatres and operas and museums and dance companies that everyone is saying we must see. It's nice to see people so proud of their culture, and working so hard to share it with you.
This last shot shows the Georgian script as well as a little bit of Soviet nostalgia. I love it! Still watching you. That slayed me.
Hopefully more to come about Georgia, Central Asia, and some more of my travels. I have not been posting regularly, which is a shame. It's fun to share this stuff with all y'all.
Thursday, September 11, 2008
changes
I am in Dushanbe again, and many changes are taking place. They have built a new presidential palace, on the tail end of the new park. There is a nice, new roard leading to Vorzob in the mountains outside of Dushanbe, where the Tajik president hosted the meeting 10-15 days ago with all the presidents of Central Asia, Medvedev, and China. They built these beautiful chalet-like houses, each with a different theme, and this glorious huge conference hall.
Manwhile, the water and power go on and off for ordinary people all the time.
Meanwhile, informal payment, corruption, and poverty is rampant.
I'm fearing a cult of personality thing is starting to happen in Tajikistan. The president's portrait is suddenly appearing everywhere (not just hanging on certain buildings, but also in people's offices) and he has changed the constitution to stay president for the next 15 years or so. Not a good sign.
Wednesday, May 28, 2008
back in action
I'm back in Central Asia for nearly three weeks! Boy is it great to see the old people and places that I enjoyed so much.
Itinerary: Dushanbe for 9 days, Bishkek for 4 days, then Almaty for 2 and Tashkent for 2. Lose 3 days traveling, and there you have nearly three weeks.
So far it's great. I can't believe how well I remember Dushanbe, I was able to find an Indian restaurant that was pointed out to me a year ago.
Some changes for the good in Dushanbe, including a razing of that dreary dead amusement park I wrote about, and changing it into a nearly-complete lovely park!
More to come (one hopes!). Free wifi in the place we're staying at definitely increases that likelihood....
Itinerary: Dushanbe for 9 days, Bishkek for 4 days, then Almaty for 2 and Tashkent for 2. Lose 3 days traveling, and there you have nearly three weeks.
So far it's great. I can't believe how well I remember Dushanbe, I was able to find an Indian restaurant that was pointed out to me a year ago.
Some changes for the good in Dushanbe, including a razing of that dreary dead amusement park I wrote about, and changing it into a nearly-complete lovely park!
More to come (one hopes!). Free wifi in the place we're staying at definitely increases that likelihood....
Tuesday, February 12, 2008
a long winter
I am heading back to the US Friday, and probably won't be back out here until May. I am looking forward to a break from the cold, though I understand the cold snap that has had a grip here since mid-December has spread to the US.
We are hearing of food shortages in some countries in the region and more and more neonatal deaths due to the extreme cold. Organizations are starting to try to finance emergency heaters, but it's challenging due to shortages of electricity and gas. We're working on finding some solutions for some of our clinics.
When I came back from Ferghana, Uzbekistan where there the ambient temperature of the hospital I went to was about 35 degrees, I was telling my colleagues about my experience. No heat, no running water, no hot water....one man commented that when everyone was part of the Soviet Union, power outages/water shortages didn't exist. If power was low in Uzbekistan, they would take it from Siberia and send it over. (I'm not an electrical engineer so can't assess whether this is something that can be done.) He commented that shortages of such basic things would not be tolerated, and that heads would roll if power outages occurred. Others concurred.
I know that it's hard for people in other countries to understand why people in former Communist/Socialist countries talk about how it was "better under the old regime..." . We think about the Cold War, a police state, shortages of meat and other "luxury" goods, and think it has to be better now. But most of these countries---and definitely in Russia, there is a very, very lopsided distribution of wealth. There are a number of "Nouveax Riche" that have gotten that way through connections, graft, crime, politics, etc. And most everybody else is struggling to get by. Despite the Gucci and JLo and other stores, most people in Almaty are scraping by. And they have a lot more options than people out in the far-flung regions and rural areas of the country.
Sure, luxury goods weren't available back then (OK, with the exceptions of the political elite), but at least the masses had a moderate standard of living that left them warm, clothed, and reasonably well-fed. It's quite a statement that people had electricity and hot water in the 1950s, but they don't in 2007.
Sorry for the bummer post. It's the unfortunate reality here, however.
We are hearing of food shortages in some countries in the region and more and more neonatal deaths due to the extreme cold. Organizations are starting to try to finance emergency heaters, but it's challenging due to shortages of electricity and gas. We're working on finding some solutions for some of our clinics.
When I came back from Ferghana, Uzbekistan where there the ambient temperature of the hospital I went to was about 35 degrees, I was telling my colleagues about my experience. No heat, no running water, no hot water....one man commented that when everyone was part of the Soviet Union, power outages/water shortages didn't exist. If power was low in Uzbekistan, they would take it from Siberia and send it over. (I'm not an electrical engineer so can't assess whether this is something that can be done.) He commented that shortages of such basic things would not be tolerated, and that heads would roll if power outages occurred. Others concurred.
I know that it's hard for people in other countries to understand why people in former Communist/Socialist countries talk about how it was "better under the old regime..." . We think about the Cold War, a police state, shortages of meat and other "luxury" goods, and think it has to be better now. But most of these countries---and definitely in Russia, there is a very, very lopsided distribution of wealth. There are a number of "Nouveax Riche" that have gotten that way through connections, graft, crime, politics, etc. And most everybody else is struggling to get by. Despite the Gucci and JLo and other stores, most people in Almaty are scraping by. And they have a lot more options than people out in the far-flung regions and rural areas of the country.
Sure, luxury goods weren't available back then (OK, with the exceptions of the political elite), but at least the masses had a moderate standard of living that left them warm, clothed, and reasonably well-fed. It's quite a statement that people had electricity and hot water in the 1950s, but they don't in 2007.
Sorry for the bummer post. It's the unfortunate reality here, however.
Wednesday, February 6, 2008
Random bits
So Sunday night my Air Uzbekistan flight lands in Almaty. (No, it wasn't some rickety Soviet-era two prop. It was a brand-spankin' new Boeing 757-200. With announcements in Uzbek, Russian, and English, and the drop-down video monitor safety briefing in English and Russian.)
As we're waiting to disembark, the disembarkation music goes on. As it starts playing and I realize it's "Summertime and the Living is Easy," I started thinking about the choice of music. Maybe they are subliminally promoting summer tourism in Uzbekistan? Perhaps they have some American or EU advisors on staff, encouraging them to seem worldly? Who knows? Regardless, the tune put a smile on my face. Yet another reason for people to stare at me because it is so painfully obvious (glasses, clothing, watch, shoes, lack of excessive makeup and shiny accessories) that I'm not one of them.
This morning I was running late, so hopped in a cap. The Gypsy King's "Volare" was on.
I would hazard a guess that I hear Kazakh music about 10-15% of the time I ride in a cab. The rest of the time it's either US Top 40, Russian pop music, or some other type of music. Globalization: good or evil? Tawwwk amongst yahselves.
As we're waiting to disembark, the disembarkation music goes on. As it starts playing and I realize it's "Summertime and the Living is Easy," I started thinking about the choice of music. Maybe they are subliminally promoting summer tourism in Uzbekistan? Perhaps they have some American or EU advisors on staff, encouraging them to seem worldly? Who knows? Regardless, the tune put a smile on my face. Yet another reason for people to stare at me because it is so painfully obvious (glasses, clothing, watch, shoes, lack of excessive makeup and shiny accessories) that I'm not one of them.
This morning I was running late, so hopped in a cap. The Gypsy King's "Volare" was on.
I would hazard a guess that I hear Kazakh music about 10-15% of the time I ride in a cab. The rest of the time it's either US Top 40, Russian pop music, or some other type of music. Globalization: good or evil? Tawwwk amongst yahselves.
Saturday, February 2, 2008
Uzbekistan
I have had the pleasure of traveling back to Uzbekistan for the first time in 15 years. I like it here this time around as much as I did as a 20-year old college student. :) My study abroad group had an excursion to Tashkent, Samarkand, and Buhara. I remembering thinking this place was so exotic, so Eastern, so cool! I also remember drinking a lot. :-) Make that, vaguely remember drinking a lot...
If Almaty is like NYC with it's less-than-friendly people, fashionistas, and high-end cars, then Tashkent is like Chicago. Big city, but people have time to smile and say hello, and everyone is like "So where are you from?" when you talk to them.
I got chided by a cop in the metro for taking pictures, and when I said "I'm sorry, I'm not from here, I didn't know you were not allowed" he (of course) asked, "Where are you from?" I explained to him that I had never seen such a clean and beautifully-designed subway in America, and so he let me off easy. I tell ya, you can take the Soviet Union away, but some of the kooky regs they enforced during the Cold War to this day linger on in people's psyches. Trust me: I'm not a risk to your national security, mmmmkay? Geez Louise.
Tomorrow I upload pictures, tell you about shopping at the markets, and about going to hospitals in Ferghana where they don't have heat. And it's been the coldest winter in 40 years.
I {heart} Uzbekistan! Sorry, Kazakhstan, but this place kicks your ass. Maybe it's just nostalgia talking....maybe it's the Baltika 7 I've consumed. Or maybe it's the fact that I am in a kick-ass hotel with free wifi in your room, a breakfast to die for with homemade preserves and baked goods, and staff that are gracious and smiling and pleasant (instead of bored/surly/annoyed, as most workers I've encountered in Almaty are). All for the bargain basement price of $55.
Trust me, you want to go to Uzbekistan! Put it on your list of places to see.
If Almaty is like NYC with it's less-than-friendly people, fashionistas, and high-end cars, then Tashkent is like Chicago. Big city, but people have time to smile and say hello, and everyone is like "So where are you from?" when you talk to them.
I got chided by a cop in the metro for taking pictures, and when I said "I'm sorry, I'm not from here, I didn't know you were not allowed" he (of course) asked, "Where are you from?" I explained to him that I had never seen such a clean and beautifully-designed subway in America, and so he let me off easy. I tell ya, you can take the Soviet Union away, but some of the kooky regs they enforced during the Cold War to this day linger on in people's psyches. Trust me: I'm not a risk to your national security, mmmmkay? Geez Louise.
Tomorrow I upload pictures, tell you about shopping at the markets, and about going to hospitals in Ferghana where they don't have heat. And it's been the coldest winter in 40 years.
I {heart} Uzbekistan! Sorry, Kazakhstan, but this place kicks your ass. Maybe it's just nostalgia talking....maybe it's the Baltika 7 I've consumed. Or maybe it's the fact that I am in a kick-ass hotel with free wifi in your room, a breakfast to die for with homemade preserves and baked goods, and staff that are gracious and smiling and pleasant (instead of bored/surly/annoyed, as most workers I've encountered in Almaty are). All for the bargain basement price of $55.
Trust me, you want to go to Uzbekistan! Put it on your list of places to see.
Wednesday, January 23, 2008
Baby it's cold outside
Wow. I've stopped looking at the weather forecasts on my iGoogle page because the lows are dipping in the minus range. I just don't want to know! Everyone says that it's an unusually cold winter. And unusually long.
Last Friday was an interesting Orthodox holiday, "Kreschenitsa." Everyone was saying that if you collected the water that ran from the faucet at midnight, it would be holy, healing water. Evidently this water keeps all year, and if you're sick you can put a few drops in regular water and will recover. They wash babies' faces with it, etc. It was very interesting to see how much everyone believed in it---even the ethnic Kazakhs talked about it, and they're Muslim!
It also is known as the coldest day of the year. Then everyone expects the weather to start warming up. Unfortunately, no thawing out yet!
I have heard that the extreme cold has caused some infant deaths in Tajikistan. They don't have power 100% of the time, and even when they do some hospitals don't have sufficient heat. Two infants died of hypothermia. So sad. Don't take your infrastructure for granted.
Last Friday was an interesting Orthodox holiday, "Kreschenitsa." Everyone was saying that if you collected the water that ran from the faucet at midnight, it would be holy, healing water. Evidently this water keeps all year, and if you're sick you can put a few drops in regular water and will recover. They wash babies' faces with it, etc. It was very interesting to see how much everyone believed in it---even the ethnic Kazakhs talked about it, and they're Muslim!
It also is known as the coldest day of the year. Then everyone expects the weather to start warming up. Unfortunately, no thawing out yet!
I have heard that the extreme cold has caused some infant deaths in Tajikistan. They don't have power 100% of the time, and even when they do some hospitals don't have sufficient heat. Two infants died of hypothermia. So sad. Don't take your infrastructure for granted.
Tuesday, January 15, 2008
The Party's Over
I am back in action after a lovely month in the US. I did a lot of work while I was at home, but it doesn't seem like work when there's a fuzzy black dog snuggled up next to you, or a great guy coming home with a bottle of Malbec. :)
This time I'm only out here for about a month, and will head to Uzbekistan, the one country that I didn't manage to travel to the last time I was in the region.
I just flew into Almaty yesterday (door-to-door travel time was 27 hours) so I've got a ton to catch up on. Will try to post more this weekend. Of note: the weather.
Global warming has not hit this part of the world. There is snow and ice piled everywhere, with average daytime temps in the teens (F) and dipping into the single digits in the evenings. I bundle up and don't care about looking fashionable. I also bought a really warm camelhair scarf with a Kazakh motif. Between the scarf, my non-stiletto boots, and my hat, it is very obvious to everyone that I'm not one of them. :) At this point I am used to "getting looks" !! And couldn't care one whit about it. I am warm and toasty, which is the point. I am too old to choose looking hot over being warm, and furthermore don't care to draw attention from Kazakh men. I got me the greatest man in the world back in Baltimore, thankyouverymuch. So warm and frumpy works for me on two fronts.
This time I'm only out here for about a month, and will head to Uzbekistan, the one country that I didn't manage to travel to the last time I was in the region.
I just flew into Almaty yesterday (door-to-door travel time was 27 hours) so I've got a ton to catch up on. Will try to post more this weekend. Of note: the weather.
Global warming has not hit this part of the world. There is snow and ice piled everywhere, with average daytime temps in the teens (F) and dipping into the single digits in the evenings. I bundle up and don't care about looking fashionable. I also bought a really warm camelhair scarf with a Kazakh motif. Between the scarf, my non-stiletto boots, and my hat, it is very obvious to everyone that I'm not one of them. :) At this point I am used to "getting looks" !! And couldn't care one whit about it. I am warm and toasty, which is the point. I am too old to choose looking hot over being warm, and furthermore don't care to draw attention from Kazakh men. I got me the greatest man in the world back in Baltimore, thankyouverymuch. So warm and frumpy works for me on two fronts.
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